Blood in Cat Urine - Ideas For Helping Your Cat

Blood in cat urine can be caused by many different things. Veterinarians will tell you that cat urine with blood in it can either be "gross", meaning you can see it with the naked eye, or it may be microscopic, meaning you cannot see it except under a microscope. The medical name for the presence of blood in cat urine is hematuria.

Causes of Blood in Cat Urine

Cat

As mentioned above, there can be many reasons for hematuria in your pet. Some of them include:

* Various types of urinary tract infections

* Bladder infections

* Vaginitis in females

* Some forms of urinary cancer

* Urinary tract stones

* Poisoning (especially from rat poison products)

* Accidents or injury

As you can see, cat urine with blood in it can be caused by some very serious conditions, all of which need to be treated by a professionally qualified veterinarian. In some cases, blood in cat urine can indicate a life-threatening condition, and getting your pet to the vet quickly can save its life.

Other Symptoms Associated with Blood in Cat Urine

In addition to seeing cat urine with blood discharges, you may also notice some other signs and symptoms. For instance, you may notice your pet is experiencing pain when urinating. You may also notice that your pet has become weak or is unable to move. There may be pain in the abdominal area, and you may also notice that your pet urinates more often than usual. All of these, along with cat urine with blood in it, are signs of a problem.

Treatment of Blood in Cat urine

Treatment for cat urine with blood depends on the cause. Your vet may need to do several tests to rule out possible causes. This might include anything from urine test to X-rays. Once the underlying cause has been identified, treatment can begin such as making sure your cat is properly hydrated (drinking enough) or if urinary or bladder stones are blocking the path of the urine.

In many cases the reason for blood in cat urine can be treated with antibiotics. Antibiotics will take care of most bacterial infections that lead to cat urine with blood in it. In some cases, you may need to change your pet's diet to help reduce the presence of cat bladder stones. More often than not, blood in cat urine will require increased levels of hydration. And if poisoning is suspected, additional levels of Vitamin K may be required.

The key to remember is that blood in cat urine is not normal and should be reported to your vet as soon as possible. Once the underlying reason for the cat urine with blood is known, treatments can begin and recovery can start.

Preventing Cat Urine and Feline Urinary Tract Problems

Your cat's urinary tract leads to the outside of the body so that your cat can urinate. While this allows urine to exit the body, it also provides a path for bacteria to enter. The body uses the chemical makeup of urine (high concentrations of urea) to cleanse the tract and kill organisms such as bacteria to prevent infection. The key to health then is frequent urination which has the effect of "cleansing all the organs in the urinary pathway including the ureters, bladder and kidneys and preventing other problems such as cat bladder infections which leads to problems such as cat urine with blood. You should also make sure your cat's liter box is clean so bacteria that resides on feces isn't entering the body.

Cat's by nature may not drink enough water as they tend to get the moisture they need through their food. Dietary change from dry kibble to canned food may be something to try if your cat is subject to feline urinary tract infections or has minor cases of blood in cat urine. You might also try natural remedies which help the urine and urinary tract maintain the PH necessary for the urine to properly cleanse the system. Ingredients such as Arctostaphylos uva ursi, Berberis vulgaris, Cantharis and Staphysagris are known to safely help maintain and possibly have a positive impact on the bladder and urinary tract. Discuss this option with your veterinarian if blood in cat urine is a continuing concern.

Blood in Cat Urine - Ideas For Helping Your Cat

Jeff Grill ihas written hundreds of articles on cat health problems. See this site for more information on Blood in Cat Urine treatment options.

How to Remove Cat Urine Odor Using a Free Homemade Recipe

Last year we purchased a home that been soiled by the previous owners' cat.
We thought that having the carpets professionally cleaned would take care of it
but it just made the problem worse.

After using several well-advertised and expensive cat urine removal products that
didn't work, I was searching on the web for a solution and found a homemade
remedy that uses three simple household products. Desperate I tried it and
wouldn't you know it - it worked!

Cat

So well that I had to find out why and researched the chemistry and origins of the
recipe. I found out it was developed originally by a chemist for neutralizing the
proteins in skunk odor, which are the same proteins found in cat urine and give it
it's horrible smell!

Cat urine is not much different from any other urine, be it human or other animals.
It is made up urea, creatinine, uric acid, sodium and other electrolytes. When cat
urine dries the urea gets broken down by bacteria which gives it that distinctive
ammonia smell. As it decomposes further it releases thiols which make the cat
urine odor worse yet.

The recipe works because the reaction of hydrogen peroxide and baking soda
produces large amount of oxygen. The oxygen molecules bond to the thiols,
breaking them up into carbon dioxide and ammonia, that evaporates quickly
thereby effectively neutralizing the thoils and their foul-smelling odor.

THE RECIPE

  • 1 quart of 3% hydrogen peroxide
  • 1/4 cup baking soda
  • 1 teaspoon of liquid soap

Gently mix all ingredients in a non-metal container. Do not mix or shake
vigorously!

The mixture is best used when fresh but can be stored. Do not keep mixture in an
airtight container as baking soda and hydrogen peroxide when mixed together
release loads of oxygen. We don't want an explosion on our hands on top of the
mess we already have!

I mix and keep mine in a large spray bottle I bought from Home Depot but on old
plastic liter soda bottle works just a well. Just remember to keep the cap on
loose.

3% hydrogen peroxide can be bought at most grocery and drug stores in pint
and quart bottles.

A word of caution:

Surfaces that are porous may swell e.g. drywall, wood flooring, particle board,
etc. with application of this recipe. But if your surface is already ruined by cat
urine and you want to get rid of the odor until you can replace it - give it a try.

Always test for color-fastness when using first. Apply to a small area and wait
24-48 hours until dry before using on an entire area. Hydrogen peroxide is a
bleaching agent in stronger concentrations (think teeth whiteners) and can lighten
materials that are not color-fast.

How to Remove Cat Urine Odor Using a Free Homemade Recipe

For specific applications and details on how to use the recipe for carpets, sofas, mattresses, comforters, hardwood floors and many other things, please visit http://www.remove-cat-urine.com

Adopting a Pug - Investigate Before You Adopt

We are living in a world where almost everything is available online. Adopting a pug is no exception. Petfinder, among many other websites, has come as a great relief to the pet lovers. It presents detailed lists about a large number of the pets including the pugs in America. Pugrescue also offers a great list about the pugs. It even displays details about pug rescue groups of Canada.

Approaching a pug rescue centre is a great idea for adopting a pug. Though you can approach one or even more of them in person, an online approach would be a smarter move. It would give greater information about pugs just at the click of the mouse. As far as online computer scams are concerned, you would be required to rely upon your discretion. Common sense is a great ally to guard you against any kind of the fraudulent deal.

Dog

One of the common scams involving pugs is a "pay ahead" scam. It usually lures the pet lovers to send payment in advance to almost non-existing banks. The fee charged by most of the dog rescue groups is non-refundable. Usually, the amount comes around thirty dollars.

A pug lover would find pug rescue centers almost in all the states of America and in quite a few of Canada. Pugs are highly popular among the pet lovers and can easily be found in almost any of the pet rescue centers apart from one that is meant specifically for pugs only.

Though being a pug lover is great in itself, have a little more heart. Whenever you visit the pug center or the pet center, have a look at the condition in which not only the pug you want to adopt, but even other pets are kept in. If you think the center authorities have been unkind to the pets in any way, consider it as your duty to inform SPCA i.e., Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals.

Most of the pug rescue centers take the services of a volunteer to interview the individual or a group of them as the case may be, who are interested in adopting the pug. The interview actually aims at getting to know whether the people interested in adopting the pug have some knowledge about looking after the pug or not. The center would not allow the pug lover even to have a look at the pug before the interview takes place.

If you want to clear the interview in order to adopt a pug successfully, you should try to get some basic information about the pugs such as how do they behave or look or sound when they are in perfect health or otherwise. Usually a pug is noisy. Most of them are chunky too.

Finally, it is common sense, it is always good to keep in mind that a pug is not a human, and cannot adjust with you. It is you who would be required to look after the pug fully. Moreover, the pug, after adoption, is to become a part of your family.

Adopting a Pug - Investigate Before You Adopt

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Homemade Dog Treats - Easy Treats to Make at Home

If you are looking for a way to give your dog some tasty treats without having to spend a lot of money and without worrying about unhealthy ingredients that are in many treats, making the treats at home for your dog may be a great option.

Many owners are worried about the dog treats they purchase, especially with the recent dog food contamination scares.

Dog

You can easily make your dog homemade dog treats instead of buying them. So, if you need a few ideas, the following are a few easy treats you can make at home.

Peanut Butter Dog Treats

You can make some great treats with this ingredient, because a lot of dogs just love peanut butter. Here's what you do: Add 1/2 cup of peanut butter with 1 & 1/2 cup of all purpose flour, 1 & 1/2 cup of whole wheat flour, 1 cup of water, and two tablespoons of oil. After you cut them into little treat-size pieces, bake them at 350 degrees F for 20 minutes.

Oatmeal Dog Treats

Oatmeal treats are also great homemade dog treats and they are easy to make. Add and mix together 1 cup of cold water, 1/2 cup of whole wheat flour, 1 teaspoon of baking soda, 3 cups of oatmeal, 2 egg yolks, and a tablespoon of parsley. Drop mixture onto cookie sheets by the spoonful and bake them for 15 minutes at 350 degrees F. Your dog will love 'em.

Those aren't your only options, but it's a good start for making your own dog treats. They are very inexpensive to make and you won't have to worry about preservatives that can be harmful to your dog.

Homemade Dog Treats - Easy Treats to Make at Home

Help you dog stay healthy by making Homemade Dog Treats. Visit Make Dog Treats and learn more about how to Make Your Own Dog Food.

Micro Pig - Is a Micro Pig the Right Pet For Me?

The Micro Pig, also known as a Teacup Pig, is the center of attention in the UK as well as the US. Micro pigs are cute, lovable pint-size porkers that is giving the term "bringing home the bacon" a new meaning. Knowing what you are getting yourself into before you bring home your miniature pet pig will help you to be a responsible pet parent.

What is a Teacup Pig?

Pet

The real question is "What is a micro pig?" because a "teacup pig" really does not exist. The term teacup pig was coined by enthusiastic shutter bugs who circulated pictures of baby micro pigs. Weighing only a fraction of a pound at birth, a 3 - 5 day old piglet can fit into a large teacup, hence the term "teacup pigs". These cute little piglets will grow to the size of a medium-sized dog in about 3 years. An adult size micro pig is about knee-high at 12 - 16 inches and weighs 40- 65 lbs. The micro pig is a mixture of 4 breeds of pigs - Potbellied, Tamworth, Kune Kune and Gloucester Old Spot.

Why is the Micro pig an ideal pet?

  1. Unlike popular myth, the micro pigs are very clean because they can be litter box trained in a few days.
  2. Like their canine friends, micro pigs are intelligent. They can learn various tricks.
  3. Micro pigs loved to be loved, are highly social and loyal to their owners.
  4. A fur allergy sufferers' friend because their skin composition is similar to humans and they have hair, not fur.
  5. They bond very well with dogs and cats.
  6. They do not have fleas.

Things to consider before buying a Micro pig:

  1. They can become very destructive if left alone for any length of time.
  2. Like children, everything goes in their mouth. Your home needs to be 'pig proofed'. For example, pigs can open cupboards.
  3. Many kennels are not equipped to provide quality care the the pet pig. An alternative is to make sure someone can move in and care for your pig while you are away.
  4. Find a vet before getting the pig to make sure they are qualified to care for pigs. You may not have a vet available who knows how to treat micro pigs.
  5. You need to be aware of your local laws - you need to be registered to keep 'livestock' and you may need to be zoned to keep farm animals.

If you are considering buying a micro pig, do your homework and be prepared for the kind of attention that your pet will need. If you choose to become a Micro Pig owner, you will be rewarded with an intelligent, affectionate, and loving pet.

Micro Pig - Is a Micro Pig the Right Pet For Me?

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Cat Dandruff - 3 Easy Ways To Cure Cat Dandruff At Home Without Spending A Fortune At The Vet

As a frequent visitor to pet forums, a topic that comes up way too regularly is that of cat dandruff. It's a problem that affects most of us cat owners, and if you own a cat, it's a matter of time before you have to deal with it. If you own a black cat, you have my utmost sympathies...

But fear not, there is a home remedy for cat dandruff that you can try without spending an expensive trip to the vet, just by observing the symptoms and environment and taking action based on these symptoms.

Cat

Most cat dandruff issues are invariably linked to 3 factors:

An aged or overweight cat with dandruff on her rump or tail

If you have a cat that is overweight or a cat with sudden weight gain and dandruff on her rump and tail, it's a sure sign that she's unable to reach these areas to clean herself. This is also a problem for aged cats that lack the mobility to groom themselves.

A good brushing would help in this case and it might be a good idea to groom your cat every couple of months. If you are able to bathe your cat without getting yourself scratched too badly in the process, then it would an excellent idea to do this every couple of months. But if you do so, avoid using human shampoos as that might dry her skin further and exacerbate the condition. If you must, use a cat shampoo and remember to wash thoroughly as excess shampoo stuck on her undercoat will only make matters worse.

It's winter If your cat only experiences dandruff issues in winter, then it could be the result of the cold and dry weather. Worse of all, most cats like to laze about in the warm comforts of the fireplace, which rapidly dries her skin causing it to flake.

Simply move her away from the fireplace every once in a while and observe if the problem persists. Getting a good humidifier would be an excellent idea, both for your feline friend and also yourself (humans get dry skin too...)

My cat is neither fat nor old, and neither is it winter now! Help! Relax...if none of the above apply, just think, have you bought any new furniture lately? A new carpet perhaps? Check if there are any changes to her environment that she might be sensitive to and try to make the necessary adjustments.

If this doesn't help, then it's most likely a diet issue. You see, cats hate water and most wouldn't go near it even when they're thirsty. The only way our feline friends get their water requirement is through the moisture content of their cat food. Problem is, most of us go for cheap dry cat food that do not contain enough moisture content, hence causing her skin to dry and flake.

Make a change to high quality canned food and add some fish oil to her diet and you'll see results in no time!

Cat Dandruff - 3 Easy Ways To Cure Cat Dandruff At Home Without Spending A Fortune At The Vet

Darren Chan's research has made him an expert in cat related issues. He is the webmaster of Cat Dandruff Away - A Step by Step Guide to Cure Cat Dandruff. Sign up now for a complimentary copy of Pamper Your Cat - 100 Recipes For Your Feline Friend ebook worth .97, for a Limited Period only!

How to Feed and Care for Orphaned Kittens

Over the last 15 years, I have raised nine orphaned kittens. Four of them were two weeks old when their mother was killed; three others were only hours old when their mother died; two more kittens fell out of the nest in our barn when they were only a day old.

Raising motherless kittens is not a difficult process, but it does require patience, time and plenty of TLC.

Cat

Here are some tips to help you raise your orphaned kittens:

1. Make a nest.

Normally, a mother cat spends many hours a day in the nest with her kittens, which helps her babies stay warm. Keeping the kittens warm is important because if they're not warm enough, they won't want to eat, and in fact, all of their bodily functions will slow down.

To keep your orphaned kittens warm, make a nest in a small box and line it with towels or old t-shirts or sweatshirts to help the babies conserve their body heat. Put a towel over the box to keep out the light. Female cats choose nests that are dark. If you don't have a heat lamp, use a small 40-watt desk lamp and place it several feet above the box to help keep the kittens warm.

If the box is big enough, you can also use a jug or another large container filled with hot water to keep the babies warm. Place the jug in the box and then make a nest with towels beside it. Refill the jug when it cools off. You can use a quart jar as a "hot water bottle" too except that a quart jar cools off very quickly.

2. Use an eyedropper or a syringe to feed the kittens.

The first time I raised orphaned kittens, I discovered that the small nursing bottles available at vet clinics were too big. The kittens couldn't get their mouths around the nipples. So, at first, for newborn kittens, I used an eyedropper. As the kittens grew bigger, a syringe worked very well, the kind of syringe for giving injections (without the needle of course!). I started out with the 3 cc size and used larger syringes when the kittens grew bigger. The tip of a syringe is about the size of a cat's nipple, and my kittens eventually sucked hard enough on the end of the syringe to draw the plunger down by themselves. Check with your vet clinic to see if any used syringes are available or to see if you can buy new syringes from the clinic.

A word of caution: Whether you're feeding with an eyedropper or a syringe, be careful to give only a few drops at a time. My veterinarian told me that if the kittens were given too much formula at once (more than they could swallow), they might inhale it. Inhaling formula will make your kittens much more susceptible to pneumonia.

Along the way, I have also discovered that it is best to feed the kittens as much as they want to eat. They will settle down and sleep until the next feeding if they are getting enough to eat. Tiny kittens will start out taking maybe 1 CC at a time. As they grow bigger, they will eat around 12 CCs at a time (usually in several different helpings).

Kittens learn very quickly that food comes from the syringe you hold in your hand. If you are having trouble getting them to take the formula from the syringe, let nuzzle in the palm of your hand for a few seconds or let them suck on your fingers. Then introduce the syringe and let them suck on it while you very slowly press the plunger down.

3. Feed the kittens KMR or kitty formula that you have mixed yourself.

KMR, the canned cat milk replacer, is available at most vet clinics in either a premixed or dry form. It is specifically formulated for kittens to provide all the nutrients they need. Follow the directions on the label. The amount to feed is determined by body weight. My newborn kittens weighed three ounces each, and for the first several days, they only needed a half an eyedropper of KMR at a time.

My vet clinic also gave me a recipe for "kitten formula." After the first can of KMR, this is what all of my kittens have been raised on.

Here is the recipe for Kitten Formula

1 cup whole milk

1 tablespoon white corn syrup

1 egg yolk

a pinch of salt

Mix in a blender and mix it up far enough in advance so the bubbles will have time to dissipate.

Warm over medium heat. Heat the formula so it feels slightly warm to the touch. All of my kittens have refused to swallow the formula if it was too cold or too warm. The same was true for KMR.

4. Feed your kittens on a regular schedule three times a day.

Mother cats nurse their kittens every couple of hours. The veterinarian I consulted cautioned me not to feed them that often. "They won't eat well and you'll get frustrated and they'll get frustrated and it will be harder on everybody," he said. He was right. Feeding the kittens three times per day worked out very well.

5. Groom your kittens with a warm, wet washcloth and help them to empty their bladders and their bowels.

Young kittens are unable to empty their bladders or move their bowels, so you'll have to help them. Use a warm, wet washcloth and wipe under their tails until they have emptied their bladders and/or moved their bowels. Be prepared to use as many as four washcloths for each kitten. If they only have to empty their bladders, you won't need that many. If they have to empty their bowels, look out -- it could get messy! Smaller washcloths that you can wring out with one hand while you hold onto a squirming kitten with the other work best. I put the washcloths in a pail of warm water and put the pail where I can reach it easily.

Young kittens also do not know how to groom themselves, and after a day or two of eating kitten formula, they become sticky from the formula that inevitably dribbles down their chins. From time to time, use a warm, wet washcloth to wipe off the formula, but be careful not to get the kittens TOO wet or it will be hard for them to stay warm.

6. Provide a litter pan when they're four weeks old.

Cats have a strong instinct to use material that they can scratch around in when they have to empty their bladders and move their bowels. By the time the kittens are four weeks old, they will already be thinking in this direction and providing them with a litter pan will help them get the idea. You might still have to assist them with a washcloth for a while, but it won't be long before they are using the litter pan.

Kitty litter in an aluminum pie plate works well to start out. As the kittens grow bigger, use a bigger container for a litter box.

7. Start feeding solid food when the kittens are about six weeks old.

Kittens that are raised by their mothers probably will start eating sooner than six weeks, but you will be able to provide more milk than their mothers would have available.

When your kittens have gotten their teeth, you can begin feeding them solid food. If you want to feed dry food, a good quality kitten chow will work fine. Kitten chow has all of the nutrients and protein that they need to keep growing. Kitten chow also is made in tiny kitten-bite-sized pieces. To tempt their appetites and to give them a "treat," you can also try a little canned kitty food. Be sure to provide fresh water for your kittens to drink, as well. And until the kittens are eating solid food regularly, supplement their caloric intake with kitten formula. By this time, you won't have to feed them with a syringe. You can put the formula into a small saucer, and once they discover where it is and what it is, they will drink by themselves.

8. Be prepared to be surprised and amazed.

Kittens grow very quickly, and on some days, you will think they are growing right before your very eyes.

Kittens get their eyes open when they're about 10 days old.

They will start purring when they are as young as 6 days old.

Kittens will start other "kitty behaviors" such as shaking their heads, attempting to groom and lifting a hind food to scratch behind their ears when they are between two to three weeks old.

Young kittens will sometimes get the hiccups (!) while you are feeding them.

Young kittens are like baby humans, in a way. Their days consist of eating, sleeping and emptying their bowels and bladders. After the kittens have gotten enough to eat and have had their bodily functions taken care of, when you put them back in the "nest," they will sleep or rest quietly until you are ready to feed them again. If they are restless and crying and meowing, they might need a little more to eat, or they might have to empty their bladders or move their bowels, or they might feel cold.

As the kittens grow older, they will be awake for longer periods of time and will eventually start playing with each other.

By the time the kittens are four weeks old, you will most likely have to move them into a bigger box, if not sooner, because the first one will be too small and they will know how to get out on their own!

If you have any questions concerning the raising of orphaned kittens, you can e-mail me at bigpines@ruralroute2.com

*************

© 2004 LeAnn R. Ralph

How to Feed and Care for Orphaned Kittens

LeAnn R. Ralph is the author of the books: *Christmas in Dairyland (True Stories from a Wisconsin Farm)* (trade paperback) and *Preserve Your Family History (A Step-by-Step Guide for Writing Oral Histories)* (e-book; 66 pages). To read sample chapters and to sign up for the FREE! monthly newsletter, Rural Route 2 News & Updates, visit — http://ruralroute2.com

How to Build a Wooden Dog Crate For Your Pet

Some people would like to use wooden crates rather than the traditional made with metal. This is probably because the ones made by wood are a lot sturdier and stringer than the ones made by wire metals. They are also less expensive than with the metal ones. You can also use it as storage for your home items after the dog has outgrown his pen or crate.

If you want to have a wooden create for your pet, you first need to know how to build a wooden dog crate. It is better for you to know this instead of buying the whole crate from pet stores.

Pet

Below are the steps on how to build a wooden dog crate:

1. Determine the size of the crate. This will depend on the size of your dog. If your dog is still a puppy, then you will just need the smaller one. Measure the size of the dog and have a few inches extra for the crate. This will leave the pen have a place for the dog's foods and toys. Make sure that your dog will not feel like a prisoner inside. Give him enough space to move around and play with his toys inside the crate.

2. Cut the woods according to the size that you measured. You can use ply wood with this. If your measurements are 24 by 32 inches, then make it into 25 ½ by 33 ½ inches. Again, this will give your do have an extra space in the pen. Also, you have some areas to place the nails to. The extra inches will become a place for the nails to be hammered.

3. Measure the ends of the wood pieces. Use that measurement to cut the pine boards to add strength and support to the crate. The pieces you will cut needs to be flush with the edges.

4. After that, you can start attaching the boards and the end pieces together. Nail the plywood through the pine and then into the plywood for about one for each four inches gap from the center.

5. Using a measuring device, measure the spaces between the pine boards with the side pieces. The pieces should fit perfectly so if you need a second measurement for this, then we recommend that you take a second attempt.

6. Now, you can attach the base of the crate with the end pieces. If you need extra help for this, you might want to ask some assistance from a friend. You will need someone to hold the crate while you are attaching the bas of it. Nail into the plywood and around the pine boards.

7. Attach the back and front pieces.

8. Flip the pen over for you to secure the corners and see if they are properly attached. Nail the pen for every three inches gap.

9. After that, you can attach the hinges for the doors of the crate. Again, make sure that the door will be wide enough for your dog to come in and out of the crate.

Those are the steps on how to build a wooden dog crate. Once it is finished, you can begin training your pet how to use it.

How to Build a Wooden Dog Crate For Your Pet

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